FOOD & DRINK: The rise and rise of small wines
The mid-1980s was a promising period in Italy. The Azzurri were the champions of the soccer world. A dip in oil prices triggered a brief economic recovery. And, in the sleepy villages just outside the Marchigiana port city of Ancona, i contadini could pick up jugs of the local wine for next to nothing.
Today, of course, Italy are the defending champs, but that
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