On the far side of the Castelli Romani town of Albano Laziale, coming from Rome and just before you turn into the neighbouring town of Ariccia, a remnant of the Old Appian Way snakes down towards the church of S. Maria della Stella. The area is not much visited by tourists nowadays, but it was once a favourite stop on the Grand Tour and, before that, an important pilgrimage centre, named in an anonymous seventh-century guide book.

The present view hasn