Rome, goes a local saying, has a church for every day of the year. It could also boast a different trattoria, taverna, osteria or restaurant for every meal, breakfast and brunch included, and still have some to spare. To celebrate the fact, this article serves up a four-course meal of Roman proverbs on the subject of food and, in Italy anyway, its necessary adjunct, wine.

But first the antipasti. There is, of course, soup, albeit here with a political flavour: