Head for the churches to find Romes real Christmas treat. Here you will discover nativity scenes of every description, from the classic 18th-century Neapolitan model to the more rustic Roman version or the modern city interpretation of the birth of Christ. If you want to make your own nativity scene, go to Piazza Navona where you will find the Christmas stalls, selling presepi and nativity figurines. The market lasts until 6 Jan when Italians celebrate Epiphany, known as La befana named after the benevolent witch who brings coal (made of sugar) to naughty children and presents to good ones. New Years Eve in Rome is a free-for-all party. Every year, the city organises open-air concerts and fireworks. See www.comune.roma.it or tel. 060606.