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FOOD & DRINK: Our daily bread
The centuries-old art of making bread is alive and well in Rome’s family-run bakeries
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Photo by Brette A. Jackson. |
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There is a no more satisfying and delicious thing to eat than a great piece of bread. This nutritious and multifunctional staple is one of man’s oldest foods. It’s emblematic, has been politicised, is used in religious ceremonies and metaphorically it can express wealth, hospitality and even kindness (In Italy, a kind-hearted person is referred to as a “piece of bread”). Bread making has been celebrated as an art for thousands of years. During the Roman republic, bakers were granted special privileges by the state and, unlike other trades that were performed by slave labourers, they were the only free craftsmen in the city. Bread was such an important comestible that wooden barges fitted with millstones were constructed on the Tiber to harness the power of the river to grind the wheat used to make the city’s bread. Many of these mills were restored or rebuilt and continued to manufacture flour until they were dismantled in the late 19th century.
Local residents still consider bread “the staff of life” and panifici (bread shops that also sell other baked sweets) abound. Modern methods of bread making have improved production but, in many cases, quality and flavour have been sacrificed. However, in the historic centre you can still find a few bakeries that make bread fit for a Caesar, using artisan methods such as natural leaven, which gives the bread better structure and taste.
The Roscioli are a family of great bakers and the Forno Campo de’ Fiori, the clan’s first endeavour, has been serving some of the Eternal City’s best bread since 1970, when Mario Roscioli, his son Fabrizio and their partner Dino Bartocci took over this small shop located in the frenetic Campo de’ Fiori. The affable Fabrizio personally oversees and assists with the making of their bread. Most of the selections are quintessentially Roman such as pane casareccio (a crusty bread hailing from neighbouring Genzano) and rosette (airy rose-shaped rolls). Both the pizza bianca and pizza rossa (unctuous flat pizza breads seasoned with sea salt and fresh tomato sauce, respectively) are legendary, as the throngs of Romans who line up for a late afternoon slice will attest. Other Italian staples such as pane senza sale (Umbrian unsalted bread) and crusty ciabatta can also be found, as well as wholesome whole wheat and grain-based varieties. Depending on the season, holiday breads such as panettone (a brioche-style bread eaten at Christmas) and colomba (a similar-style bread eaten at Easter) make an appearance, and if you’re looking for something sweet, an array of biscuits are always available. Fabrizio recently opened a sandwich shop next door, where you can pair the fruits of their labour with cured meats, local cheeses, seasonal vegetables, tuna, Sicilian anchovies, etc.
Antico Forno Roscioli is a jewel of a bread shop just off the bustling Via dei Giubbonari (where you’ll find their upscale specialty food/wine bar, Enoteca Roscioli, at number 21). Pierluigi Roscioli (Mario’s nephew) has been running this elegant bakery along with his father Alessandro since 1972. Pierluigi, whose baby face and large blue eyes clash with his heavily tattooed arms, offers more eclectic and international selections such as baguettes, a fantastic dusky rye, and a mildly sweet dried fig loaf with walnuts and raisins. Those with gluten intolerance issues and, conversely, lovers of whole-grain breads can find a choice range of gluten-free, soy-based and organic grain breads. During an average week, he and his staff of bakers make about 120 different varieties of bread (both sweet and savoury) and biscuits, many of which are purchased by some of the top hotels and restaurants in the city. Pierluigi is, after all, a Roscioli, so you’ll also find excellent pizza bianca and pizza rossa. If you happen to be there at lunchtime, they also sell a small assortment of homemade pasta.
The Urbani family has run Antico Forno del Ghetto since 1927. Current owners Mauro, his father Adolfo, and brothers Marco and Marcello continue to delight the public with outstanding bread (they also supply bread to several caterers and to Gambero Rosso’s Città del Gusto in Via Fermi 61) that also happens to be kosher. Breads of Jewish origin can be found daily, such as plain and whole-wheat mazza, pane treccia (challah) and pita — Mauro, the visionary who runs the front of the house, also dreams of selling New York-style bagels. Less “sacred” selections are straight from the pantheon of Roman baking: pane casareccio, rosette and both pizza bianca and pizza rossa. During the week they offer stuffed breads (pane farcito) with vegetables and fresh mozzarella and an unusual trio of anchovies, breadcrumbs and zucchini. Their popular pane ossi (bone-shaped rolls with a toasty crust) are, in a word, incredible. If you want something savoury to eat with your bread, head to the tiny deli in the next room, where porchetta and other cured meats signal your exit from the kosher end of the business (the Urbani are actually Christians). For those with a sweet tooth the biscuits and pastries are sure to please (note: the sweets are not kosher).
Forno La Renella is a Trastevere institution that’s been feeding hungry locals for decades. If you arrive there in the morning go to the back of the bakery and if you’re lucky you may be invited to watch the charismatic owner, Massimo Arnese, deftly sliding loaves of bread from a long-handled palette into a roaring wood-burning oven, like Vulcan at his forge. Once you return to the shop, take a number and stand in line with the other happy customers and indulge yourself with a slice of their fantastic pizza al taglio (rectangular pan-baked pizza served with seasonal vegetables, cured meats, fresh mozzarella or the classic potato with fresh rosemary) or choose from an ample selection of sandwiches made with their fantastic pizza bianca. Whole-grain breads are always offered, and their smoky and chewy pane casareccio and filone are arguably the best in the city, and can be found in many neighbouring trattorie. Pastries such as seasonal fruit tarts are fresh and homey and the biscuits make great desserts or snacks.
Forno Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 22, tel. 0668806662. 07.30-14.30, 16.30-20. Sun closed.
Antico Forno Roscioli, Via dei Chiavari 34 (Campo de’ Fiori), tel. 066864045. 07.30-20.00. Sun closed.
Antico Forno del Ghetto, Piazza Costaguti 30 (Ghetto), tel. 0668803012. Mon–Fri 08.00-14.30, 17.00-20.00. Sat and Sun 08.00-14.30.
Forno La Renella, Via del Moro 15 (Trastevere), tel. 065817265. 07.00-01.00 daily.
Forno Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 22, tel. 0668806662. 07.30-14.30, 16.30-20. Sun closed.
Antico Forno Roscioli, Via dei Chiavari 34 (Campo de’ Fiori), tel. 066864045. 07.30-20.00. Sun closed.
Antico Forno del Ghetto, Piazza Costaguti 30 (Ghetto), tel. 0668803012. Mon–Fri 08.00-14.30, 17.00-20.00. Sat and Sun 08.00-14.30.
Forno La Renella, Via del Moro 15 (Trastevere), tel. 065817265. 07.00-01.00 daily.
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