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FOOD AND DRINK: Harvesting the new wine
This year’s early grape harvest and low production have not dampened enthusiasm about the quallity of the wines.
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All over Italy, the wine harvest is well under way or already completed. Traditionally most white grapes are picked in September with reds in October, to be followed by the various harvest festivals throughout the country. This year, however, these events could more likely be celebrations of the new wine, as harvest started as early as the first few days of August in some areas. This follows a ten-year trend of increasingly early grape harvests, which has been linked to steadily rising temperatures.
While some argue that there is historical evidence of early harvests, the fact that this year’s came even before the one following the scorching summer of 2003 leads some to believe that there is more to this trend than innocuous weather patterns. For the grapes, though, 2007 has been a kinder year than 2003. Four years ago the summer arrived with record-breaking temperatures, causing the grapes to dry out in the heat, while this year everything has come early due to the mild winter and hot spring. Thus harvest has come sooner thanks to a year-round precocious ripening, rather than a rush to save moisture.
In any event, changes in the life cycle of the vine can have quite an effect on grapes. As producers have always known, wine grapes are extremely susceptible to variation. A slight difference in weather or length of growing season has a profound impact on the final product – such an impact, in fact, that Attilio Scienza, a University of Milan professor of horticulture, told the Chicago Tribune in August that if harvests continue to come earlier each year, “this will likely change the variety of grapes in Europe. Growers will have to find grapes that fit the weather cycle.”
This has been a strange season for another reason: it proves to be one of the smallest harvests of the last half century and, in a few areas, production is down by almost 50 per cent. Italy has consistently been one of the most prolific wine regions in the world, last year producing almost 50 million hectolitres. This year a decrease of 12 per cent is expected, down to 43.5 million hectolitres. In some places this has been due to the weather: hail wreaked havoc on the Amarone vineyards in the Veneto district, reportedly destroying 90 per cent of the yield. In the south, however, where production levels took the biggest hit, drought and pests caused the most damage. Sicily also suffered the harsh scirocco wind in August, though in unaffected areas and where there was irrigation quality is said to be high.
Luckily for wine drinkers, Sicily is not the only region where producers are hopeful. In fact, 2007 promises to be a stellar vintage all over the country, despite the decrease in production. If vintners were careful to prune and green harvest their grapes (where excess bunches are cut off in order to concentrate flavour) quality is bound to be exceptional.
Starting with the north, Piedmont has seen a five per cent decrease in production but quality promises to be remarkable, helped in large part by a summer of high day and low night temperatures, a favourable condition for grapes. The red varieties Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo were all picked two weeks early, with the great Nebbiolo grapes, which make Barolo and Barbaresco, low in alcohol and acidity, potentially making for balanced wine.
Trentino is one of the few areas where production levels are on par with 2006, though harvests started as early as 20 days ahead of schedule. Grape quality is said to range from good to excellent. The area is well known for its crisp, aromatic whites, and this year promises to be a great one for Muller Thurgau and Pinot Grigio, as well as for the local red, Teroldego, which was able to reach full ripeness.
Neighbouring Friuli Venezia Giulia is the only region to report an increase in production and thanks to ideal weather conditions, quality is said to be optimum, due to lower levels of potential alcohol as well as a high level of acidity. The Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and the local Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla should all be refreshing, clean whites this year.
The Franciacorta production zone in Lombardy started harvesting earlier than perhaps any other time in its history. This area produces Champagne-method sparkling wines, and there is already palpable excitement about the quality. In Tuscany harvest started ten to 15 days earlier than usual, except in Montalcino. Here Italy’s most famous wine, Brunello, is produced, and it is the only one that was harvested on schedule. After a dry, warm winter, May and June rains helped to restore balance to the grapes here, and producers believe they have an exceptional vintage.
Umbria, where the fresh white Orvieto and the deep, dark Sagrantino di Montefalco are produced, suffered a mildew scare in spring. At harvest the grapes appeared to be healthy, so despite a five-ten per cent decrease, quality seems to be good. In Lazio, grapes ripened on average 20 days ahead of schedule, and the region has seen a smaller harvest than that of 2006. Despite erratic weather conditions which impeded flowering, spring rains followed by a dry summer resulted in very healthy grapes at harvest time, so producers are confident and the quality of the area’s most famous wine, Frascati, a light white, should be good.
Ultimately, these are of course predictions, and fermentation and aging will have the final word on quality. Today though, it is widely accepted that “good wine is made in the vineyard”, and almost everyone agrees that, as with cooking, when it comes to wine the raw materials are the most important factor in success. Therefore, while the early harvest may not have had a negative effect on quality this year, if temperatures continue to rise and growing seasons become shorter and shorter, it will be up to the producers to make the necessary adjustments to ensure a quality product. Whether this will lead to a host of new grape varieties in Europe, or if producers will continue to succeed in meeting nature’s challenges, remains to be seen.
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